Beer In Review: Beyond The Pale

It's been a very warm and muggy day today here in Southern New England. While the overcast skies and breezy conditions are typical for November, the mid-60° temperatures are not. I'll take it though, as it means I don't need to have the heat on.

But this warm front from the south is bringing with in something else, a hint of the ocean. While I'm probably a couple dozen miles from the coast (or not), I can smell the sea. It's faint, almost imperceptible, but it's there. And it inspires me to.... drink pale ales.

The Sierra Nevada Brewing Company has been brewing since 1980, long before the microbrew craze of the 1990's. Located in Chico, California, high up in the mountain range it was named after, Ken Grossman created what was to become their flagship beer, the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.

This pale ale has a clear, light copper color which supports a stable, ample head. The mighty Magnum hops give this beer it's pronounced bitterness, while the Perle hops imbue a slight floral bouquet. The Cascade hops offer just a hint of orange but this ain't no fruity pale ale. It's as solid as the mountains that it's brewed upon. 5.6% ABV.

As one might expect from a brewery in Calfornia, the Sierra Nevada Brewing Company is trying to be as Earth-friendly as possible. The company has re-invested its profits into four 250 kW fuel cells as well as waste heat, CO₂, and energy reclamation equipment. They're firmly committed to recycling, treat their own wastewater, and gives their spent grain, hops, and yeast to local dairy and beer farmers. A great beer and an ecologically responsible company.

The wind's picked up as the storm's come knockin' on our door. The rain is beating against the windows, rendering the overhangs useless. Before the gloomy skies faded to black, the trees swayed back and forth like so many masts on sailing ships on a rough sea. Although it's dark now, gusts of wind roar like waves crashing on the shore.

Smuttynose Brewing lacks Sierra Nevada's high tech eco-friendly operations. They confess to having more in common with Milwaukee's brewers of the 1950's post-war heydays than its contemporary brethren. Over the years, as accolades brought success, the brewery has updated some of its equipment. But it doesn't stop them from making great beer.

Like Sierra Nevada's first creation, Shoals Pale Ale was Smuttynose's flagship beer in 1994. This is a beer that's best had in a pint glass rather than out of the bottle. For reasons that I don't understand, drinking the beer straight the bottle accentuates the hops to the point where this beer drinker feels like he's drinking an authentic IPA, wood cask and all (though Smuttynose does make an IPA). The Chinook hops seem to have more bite than they otherwise would. Maybe it's an illusion brought on by the picture of the weathered island house on the label. I guess IPA fans may do the opposite of my recommendations.

The Cascade hops bring in a hint of citrus, but like Sierra Nevada, the Chinook bittering hops run the show. An ample head rides on slightly cloudy copper body. As you make your way through the glass, the assortment of Pale Brewers and Crystals malts show up after the hops have finished crashing over your tongue. Drink too many of either of these pale ales and your tongue may feel as weathered as the island house the next day. 5.0% ABV.

I had the Shoals Pale Ale recently with barbecued salmon (a rub of curry powder, minced garlic, and ginger with Enova oil), corn, and stuffing. It was an excellent matchup. The Sierra Nevada Pale Ale was the beverage with ocean scallops with peas over pasta in a white cheese blend sauce. Another get match up.

You can't go wrong with either of these pale ales if you like your beers hoppy.

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